A bilum is a handmade string bag, made almost entirely by women, through a process known as looping. Looping is a technique of creating a fabric by interlocking loops of yarn or string with a single needle or hook. Looping is different from knitting or crocheting, which use two or more needles or hooks. Looping is also known as knotless netting or knotless knitting.

Bilum-making is a self-taught skill acquired by watching other women, then trial and error until the maker becomes professionally adept. Traditionally, women carried knowledge of which trees and plants would yield good fibres for twining into strings for their bilums. In the Highlands, and in particular Mendi in the Southern Highlands Province, special expeditions were made by mothers, accompanied by young girls, in search of these plants in the jungles. Songs could be heard echoing back from the mountains, and if the search lasted until night fell, the girls would hunt for frogs to take home for the family dinner. The collected plant barks would be dried for several days and later immersed in mud to soften them before extracting the fibres. The fibres were then twisted into fine strings with the aid of dry white clay, rubbed onto the makers’ thighs to create a gripping surface. From time to time, other women would assist the makers in looping the strings, as this is both tedious and time-consuming. However, not all women could assist, as some lacked the skill of twisting the fibres to the maker’s preference.

Looping the bilum is considered the simplest task, according to most women, and if able to work day and night, a bilum can be completed in less than two weeks. Bilums are categorised according to their usage, from the everyday to special occasions and rituals. As with language, or tok ples (the local language), bilums differ from place to place and region to region. Most Papua New Guinean people can tell the differences in the designs, colours and styles.

Bilums have many purposes and meanings in Papua New Guinea. They are used to carry babies, food, firewood, water containers, personal belongings and even pigs. They are also used as pillows, blankets, mats, hammocks and decorations. They are given as gifts, exchanged as bride price or compensation payments, worn as clothing or accessories, and displayed as symbols of status or wealth. They are also expressions of creativity, identity and culture.

The bilums from the Highlands region are known for their vibrant colours and intricate patterns. They are often knotted with other material features, such as cuscus (marsupial) furs¹. Each province has its own distinctive style and technique of making bilums.

These bilums are not only practical items, but also cultural treasures that reflect the creativity, identity and culture of the Papua New Guinean people. 

Thank you for your attention and interest.